Last Post from South America?
So, we have to talk about this road. It was terrifying. Worse coming back because I knew what to expect, and we stopped more frequently on the way back so I could calm down - Rescue Remedy and nicotine were all I had. Wish I'd bought a bottle of Singani to neck as it really was a bit much. Even when there was nothing coming the other way down this single track road, the size of the drop was just too much. Especially when you really couldn't see any sign of any road beneath you, just thousands of metres drop.
Meeting other vehicles meant that when driving down hill, you had to back up until he could pass. The Bolivians are clueless about reversing, and the mirrors were covered in dust so you couldn't see out of them anyway. The best route I decided was to get out of the vehicle and film the chaos, rather than risk being driven over the edge.
Actually, I must say that our driver, Jose Luis, was a cut above most of the other drivers we watched. It turned out that he used to be the chofer (Spanish spelling) for the ex-President so he really was far far better than other drivers. Even so, it wasn't an experience I'm going to be in a rush to repeat.
I will upload some video from the phone as soon as I get back to UK so you can all share the experience! The journey took 7 hours in total and I was exhausted by the end of it. Leaning to the right constantly to try to ensure the car stays on the road by will power and all 8 stone of me really takes it out of you.
We finally arrived in Caranavi and went to our hotel which had a fairly big pool and the rooms were OK. Basic but they had a fan, which was essential as it was hellish hot. We went to the Telecentre and had a meeting with them. They have one of the best connections out of all the telecentres but didn't seem to quite have the same oomph as some of the others. Probably because the person who is in charge doesn't live in Caranavi and I can't blame him for not dropping in very often! Actually, parachute or white water rafting down the river would be infinitely more preferable than that road, we decided.
Went and did some shopping, supposedly for a swimming costume but couldn't find one and the sun was just about to drop behind a very high mountain when we finally got back to the hotel, and it got dark really suddenly so I never did get a swim. I stayed in the hotel to work and drink a well deserved beer whilst Liang went out, and the hotel owner came over and started asking for a quote for an Internet connection. Of course, it ended up going a bit further and he is now getting a quote for sharing the Telecentre connection, 3 or 4 computers, and a wireless network around the hotel for guests. Funny how these things happen!
Went to sleep quite early, and in the morning woke up to see a huge amount of mist. We were supposed to be leaving early for Coroico but no-one in their right mind would drive that road in this weather so we sat around till it started to clear, about 12. Then it was a five or 6 hours journey to Coroico, which is a hill village that is pretty touristy. Because of the May Day holidays, there were no hotel rooms left anywhere. We ended up sleeping in what could only really be described as a garage! Anyway, sleep was desperately needed by the time we'd found somewhere to stay, been to a mega French restaurant - I had lamb curry - and got back to the hotel This going to sleep at 10pm is very odd but it seems to work quite interestingly as I've had to get up really early every day.
Am rushing this as I am now back in Santa Cruz, and have to try and pack a huge amount of stuff into a limited number of bags tonight as I fly home in the morning. I went to the Witches market in La Paz earlier today and it was freaky! I just can't believe some of the stuff they were selling. Dried cats, llama foetus', wooden icons etc. Anyway, that was one of today's experiences but also managed to get some more funky pressies at the last minute. Seem to have done a serious amount of travelling on this trip, 2 more flights and 5 hours driving today alone.
Have uploaded some more photos, but still got a lot to do and had to put a lot on the phone so can't get at those till I'm near a bluetooth dongle again. Arrived back at Alberto#s this evening to find everything in chaos as they discovered they had termites so the whole house has been fumigated and all the clothes etc are piled up all over the place so that the fumigators could get at all the wood work, which is a fairly integral part of this house as you can see from the photos.
Should be home Weds morning, and will be on a really weird schedule till at least the weekend because I'll be 5 hours ahead of UK, so don't expect any late nights from me guys until I get back to normal!! Thanks for all your comments, I'll try and remember some other things that have happened that I have meant to post about but in the meantime, thanks for all your comments, and next time I post I'll either be stuck in some bloody airport unexpectedly, or I'll be home with the girls, who I've missed loads. Chau chau.
1 Comments:
great blog, great photos on the link
http://community.webshots.com/album/337360224MrgSRN
of the road and the mad parrot who is probably a BT spy following you and listening. Wifi'ing all the hotels in Bolivia huh?
no wonder it went for you.
I am glad you are on your way home now, safe trip, talk soon
chris
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